I got a really good deal on an off-season short term rental in Mountain Village (a “suburb” of Telluride), so my wife and I took a road trip north, to spend the week in southwest Colorado.
There’s a couple of ways to make the nearly 500-mile drive from Phoenix to Telluride, but all of them eventually end up passing through Cortez, Colorado: I opted to take I-17 north to Flagstaff; U.S. 89 to Cameron; U.S. 160 across the Navajo Nation, past Four Corners; U.S. 491 to Cortez; and then CO-145 through Dolores and Rico to Telluride. When I drove to Cortez in the 1980s, U.S. 160 was empty except for an occasional abandoned wooden souvenir stand. Now, there is a modern gas station every 30 miles or so. ⛽️
It was snowing on Lizard Head Pass as we descended into Telluride. After driving through town to the Bridal Veil Falls trailhead, we had dinner at Steamies Burger Bar downtown, before heading back up the hill to Mountain Village. Our condo had a perfect view of sunset over Telluride Airport on Deer Creek Mesa.
Tuesday morning, I figured I ought to start acclimating to the 9,500 ft. altitude, so I went for a walk down San Joaquin Rd., then west along Mountain Village Blvd. Walking is the best way to orient yourself to new surroundings. Slow — especially if you are a nearly 60-year old fat man — but you see & learn more. 👨🏻🎓
After breakfast, my wife & I were at a loss for what to do, so we drove CO-145 along the San Miguel River, through Sawpit to Placerville. We turned left to go west on CO-145 for about five miles, before doubling back and heading heading north on CO-62. Just burning time, but good scouting for Wednesday’s trip to Silverton. After about eight miles driving along Leopard Creek, we headed back to Telluride.
After a breakfast burrito lunch and Omission Brewing Lager at The Phoenix Bean in the New Sheridan Hotel, we took a short walk up & down Colorado Ave. Many businesses were closed, or under construction, for the “shoulder season”. Not for the last time, we had issues with the parking pass scanner at the garage on Pacific Ave. 🤨
Driving back into Mountain Village, we stopped at The Village Market — a high end grocery store like A.J.s in Phoenix — to pick up dinner and “supplies”. (Beer, soda, chips, cookies, etc.)
After another acclimitization walk, and breakfast, on Wednesday we made the long 73-mile drive “around the mountain”, From Telluride to Silverton. It is only 12 miles as the crow flies, but Black Bear Pass Rd. is one way, not for nothing known as the most dangerous drive in Colorado, and in any case was still snowed in.
Heading the same direction we drove on Tuesday, we stayed on CO-62 over the Dallas Divide into Ridgway, which reminded me of Kiel, Wisconsin. A nice small town. We turned south onto U.S. 550, the “Million Dollar Highway”, passing through Ouray (more touristy than Ridgway), up twisty, no-guard rail, Uncompahgre Gorge to Red Mountain Pass, then down to Silverton. A beautiful drive, especially with snowy mountains. 🤗
The last time my wife & I visited Silverton was in 2008, on our pre-wedding “honeymoon” drive across America, when we took the train up from Durango. A town of only 660 souls, Silverton has at least two marijuana dispensaries and a weed farm.
We didn’t spend long in Silverton: I bought a t-shirt, and we ate lunch at Golden Block Brewery , which had the best jalapeno poppers I ever tasted. Mmm, bacon … 🤤
Thursday, I hiked Bridal Veil Falls. I was hoping to get to the top of the falls, but as is my habit, I ran short on time. Still, I exercised, and enjoyed the views, and that is what matters. My hiking beer was an Odell Brewing “90 Shilling Ale”.
After I finished, we stopped back in Telluride for lunch at Baked in Telluride. Despite not being a time-of-day or seasonal rush, service was slow. I was so thirsty after my hike, that I pulled a liter of water from their cooler to drink while we waited. On the other hand, Bernie loved her apple turnover. Eating enough road junk, I had a veggie sandwich on a salt bagel. 🥯
Like the previous two nights, we ate dinner back at the condo, probably while watching “Forensic Files”, since that is what we do when we are home. I’ve seen every episode so many times, I have most of them memorized.
We took our time getting our day started earlier in the week, but Friday we were up early, so we could get back to Phoenix to pick up our cats Puddin’ and Gizmo before the vet closed. Heading back over Lizard Head Pass on CO-145, it was snowing again. My sister-in-law told me the lady who runs Rico Coffee, was from Wisconsin, so we stopped for hot cups to go. Anna couldn’t have been nicer, and the rhubarb coffee cake was delish.
Though only two lanes, and twisty, CO-145 was a low stress, low traffic drive. Once we hit Cortez, though, and all the way back across the Navajo Nation, traffic increased. Plenty of RVs, snowbirds, and other slow drivers. I assume getting a jump on Memorial Day weekend. I’d barely clicked save on my dashcam while we were in Colorado, but that changed when I was back in sand land. For added fun, there were dust storms near Baby Ears and Cameron. 💨
Driving Telluride to Silverton
Driving Telluride to Silverton, Colorado from Preston McMurry on Vimeo.
